Khin’s Corner -
A Jewelry Appraiser’s Blog
Welcome to “Khin’s Corner – A Jewelry Appraiser’s Blog” and thanks for taking a moment to read this month’s Blog! Here is where we delve into all things related to your precious jewelry.
This month we’re learning about the PARTS of your jewelry. Jewelers, like any profession, have specialized terms and words they use that are unique to their field.
We will look at sketches and diagrams, identify the parts and explain a little bit about each. This will help allow you and your jeweler to communicate a little more efficiently when designing or repairing a piece of jewelry.
RINGS
Accent Stone – smaller stones set alongside the center stone. They are meant to complement the center stone or the enhance the overall appearance of the item. These are generally smaller than side stones.
Bridge – this portion of the ring is located below the center stone at the top of the ring. The shank is typically opened at the top, the bridge connects both sides of the shank and provides stability while also allowing light to flow through the center stone.
Center Stone – the main gem on the ring. Typically, the largest and most vibrant, the center stone is the focus of the ring; it’s the stone that most people’s eyes will be drawn to.
Gallery – the empty space below the center stone allowing light to flow through the center stone to maximize the color, fire, and brilliance. Sometimes the gallery has swirl or scroll patterns which is not only decorative but acts to control the amount and direction of the light.
Gallery Rail/Bearing – the metal rim that is found just below the center stone. This is what the center stone rests on.
Hallmark/engraving – this is an engraving inside the shank of the ring that states the type of metal and/or the designer’s “mark” or logo
Head – the portion of the ring that supports and secures the gemstone (also known as “the setting”).
Shank – this is the part that goes under and on the lower sides of your finger. (The general public will sometimes refer to this as “the band”, but “shank” is the more accurate and technical term used by jewelers).
Shoulder – the upper portion of the shank. The bridge (described above), connects both shoulders of the shank.
Side Stone – smaller stones set alongside the center stone. They are meant to complement the center stone or the enhance the overall appearance of the item. These are larger than accent stones.
Sizing Area – the very bottom of the shank. This is where a bench jeweler can add to or remove a piece of the shank to adjust the size of the ring. After it is sized, it is buffed and polished and should be completely invisible, with no lines to tell where it was adjusted.
PENDANTS
Bail – a solid connected loop attached to the pendant or a jump ring. This loop is designed to allow a chain to be passed through, in order to allow the pendant to hang and move freely on the chain. There are many styles and shapes of bail, which can be designed to be either visible, or not visible, and which may or may not have accent stones.
Center stone – the main gem on the pendant. Typically, the largest and most vibrant, the center stone is the focus of the pendant; it’s the stone that most people’s eyes will be drawn to.
Embellishment – essentially this refers to “accent stones” found on a pendant. They are meant to complement the center stone or the enhance the overall appearance of the item.
NECKLACE CLOSURES
Clasp Assembly – the connector that unites both sides of a chain. There are many styles and shapes of clasp and can be changed based on design, ease of use, or desired appearance. Additionally, for added security, there are some clasps that come with additional locks to ensure the chain remains secure.
NECKLACE LENGTHS
The lengths vary, of course, from person to person. The measurements given are “average” lengths, but will vary according to the wearer’s body type. A jeweler will understand and adjust accordingly knowing that an “opera length” necklace on a shorter person will be a different length than an “opera length” necklace on a taller person.
14 Inch – Collar length – tight fitting around the neck and throat, does not hang.
16 Inch – Choker length – a little looser than a collar and typically hangs to the base of the throat.
18 Inch – Princess length – hangs just below the throat to the top of the chest between the collar bones.
20 Inch – Matinee length – hangs lower on the chest, but not between the breasts.
24 Inch – Opera length – hangs to the top of the cleavage.
30 or 33 Inch – Rope or Lariat length – hangs between the cleavage below the breast.
Earrings
Basket – a type of setting designed with open spaces that allows the center stone to have as much light as possible.
Backing – This is a separate part of the earring that goes onto the back side of the post behind the ear. It secures the post in place so the earring does not fall out. Backings come in a variety of styles for various levels of security and comfort. Your jeweler can offer various types of backings such as: tension back, screw back, lever back, omega back, and many others.
Center Stone – the main gem on the earring. Typically, the largest and most vibrant, the center stone is the focus of the earring; it’s the stone that most people’s eyes will be drawn to.
Dangle – The portion of the earring that hangs or sways. Typically connected to the upper dangle via a jump ring. Some earrings may have multiple dangles.
Jacket – an additional piece that can be added while wearing a stud earring. It has a hole through which the post of the stud passes. It allows the wearer to change the appearance of the earring from studs to a variety of other designs depending on the shape of the jacket.
Jump Ring – a ring designed to connect the upper and lower part of the earring. It allows the earring to move or dangle.
Post – the part of the earring that goes through the hole in the ear. These come in a variety of lengths and thicknesses to accommodate earlobes of all shapes and sizes.
Prong – the piece of metal that holds the stone in place.
Side Stones – smaller stones set alongside the center stone. They are meant to complement the center stone or the enhance the overall appearance of the item.
Upper Dangle – the portion of the earring connected to the post. If the earring has a dangling portion (or multiple dangling portions), it is attached to this.
Cufflink
Cup Member – the portion of the cufflink that holds the center stone or image on the face. It is typically larger than the opening on the shirt sleeve to prevent it from sliding through.
Free End – the pivot point on the post where the toggle can rotate.
Front Face – the image or center stone on the cufflink.
Post – this is the side of the cufflink that will be inserted through the opening on the shirt sleeve. It appears in a variety of styles, and lengths.
Toggle – the rotating portion of the cufflink. To insert the cufflink into the sleeve, the toggle is turned vertical to align inside the post and slip through the opening of the cuff. To lock the cufflink in place, the toggle is turned horizontal.
December’s Birthstones are Turquoise, Tanzanite, and Zircon
Congratulations to those of you who are born in December and get to enjoy these three different birthstones which are reminiscent of the blue depths of the oceans.
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