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We Can Fix It! An Introduction to Jewelry Repair

Khin Goodkin

Khin’s Corner -

A Jewelry Appraiser’s Blog

 

Welcome to “Khin’s Corner – A Jewelry Appraiser’s Blog” and thanks for taking a moment to read this month’s Blog! Here is where we delve into all things related to your precious jewelry.

 

This month we’re learning about Jewelry Repair.


Jewelry holds immense sentimental and monetary value. Whether it’s a family heirloom, an engagement ring, or a cherished gift, keeping your pieces in excellent condition is essential. That’s where the team of jewelers at Good Khin Gems, LLC comes in. We utilize a number of skilled artisans, who are the backbone of jewelry repair and restoration, ensuring your treasures remain beautiful and wearable for years to come. Let’s delve into what a jeweler can repair, what we look for during inspections, and why regular maintenance is vital for both aesthetics and appraisals.


What Can a Jeweler Repair?

Jewelers are equipped to handle a wide range of repairs, including:


1 - Ring Resizing: Whether a ring is too tight or too loose, a jeweler can adjust its size by adding or removing metal. For a ring that is too small, the jeweler will cut the band and add a matching piece of metal to increase the size. If the ring is too large, there are many methods a jeweler can use to make sure the ring fits you properly; some examples are adding sizing beads, a spring guard, or a bridge to the inside of the ring, or possibly removing a small section and soldering the band back together, ensuring a seamless finish. Whether it’s made smaller or larger, the resized ring is then polished to restore its original look ensuring the changes will remain undetectable once worn.


Photo Courtesy of: www.stuller.com
Photo Courtesy of: www.stuller.com

2 - Stone Replacement: Missing or damaged gemstones can be replaced with stones that match the original in size, cut, color, clarity, and quality. Jewelers carefully source replacement stones to ensure they blend perfectly with the existing piece. They also take great care during the setting process, using precision tools to secure the new gemstone without compromising the surrounding structure.

3 - Stone Repair: Sometimes a gemstone can become chipped. If the chip is small enough, we can remove the stone and resurface or grind and polish it to remove the chip while still keeping the original shape of the stone.

4 - Prong Repair and Retipping: Prongs that hold gemstones in place can wear down over time, putting your gems at risk. Jewelers can retip or replace prongs to secure your stones. This involves adding small amounts of metal to rebuild worn prongs or completely replacing damaged ones, ensuring the gemstone remains firmly in place.

5 - Chain, Link, and Clasp Repair: Broken chains, bracelets, and malfunctioning clasps can be soldered or replaced to restore functionality. For links, the jeweler uses soldering techniques to mend broken links, ensuring the repair is nearly invisible. When it comes to clasps, they will replace faulty mechanisms or adjust them to ensure they open and close smoothly. Keep in mind, that depending on the chain or link, it may or may not be repairable, and sometimes you’re better off buying a new chain.

6 - Polishing, Cleaning, or Rhodium Plating: Jewelers can remove scratches, restore shine, and clean intricate settings to enhance the piece’s appearance. Polishing involves using specialized wheels (see image below) and compounds to smooth out shallow scratches, while ultrasonic cleaning removes dirt and debris from hard-to-reach areas, leaving the jewelry sparkling like new. Rhodium plating gives an extra layer of brightness and a new look to a pre-owned item.


Photo Courtesy of: www.stuller.com
Photo Courtesy of: www.stuller.com

7 - Restoration of Antique Jewelry: Vintage pieces often require special attention to preserve their historical integrity while repairing structural issues. Jewelers use techniques like hand-fabrication and laser welding to restore delicate components, ensuring the piece maintains its original finish, charm and character.

8 - Earring Repairs: Sometime earring posts break or become bent. We can either repair or replace the post. Additionally, you might want to change the post type entirely and switch from a regular post and fastener to a screw back or from clip-on earrings to ones for pierced ears.

9 - Engraving Repairs: Worn-out engravings can be re-etched or enhanced. Jewelers use engraving tools or lasers to restore faded designs or inscriptions, making them legible and crisp again without damaging the surrounding areas.

10 - Reinforcement of Settings: Over time, settings can become loose. A jeweler ensures gemstones are securely held in place. They inspect each setting for weaknesses and reinforce it with additional metal or adjust the existing structure to tighten the setting to prevent the stones from shifting or falling out.

11 - Restringing of Pearls: Over time, the string on a pearl necklace or bracelet becomes loose or might even break. We can expertly restring the pearls to give your necklace or bracelet the tight and secure fit it needs.


What Do Appraisers/Jewelers Look for During Inspections?

When you bring your jewelry to Good Khin Gems, LLC for inspection, we examine it with a keen eye for detail. Here are the key things we assess:

1 - Structural Integrity: We check for cracks, worn metal, or weak points in the piece that could lead to breakage. We thoroughly examine areas like bands, hinges, and links, looking for signs of thinning metal or stress points that may require reinforcement.

2 - Stone Security: We ensure all stones are securely set and look for loose prongs or bezels. We test the stability of each gemstone by gently probing the settings and noting any movement that could indicate a potential issue.

3 - Wear and Tear: Over time, everyday use can cause metal to thin or scratch. We look for signs of excessive wear, such as worn edges, flattened prongs, or deep scratches, and recommend appropriate repairs to restore the piece’s durability.

4 - Clasp Functionality: For necklaces and bracelets, we test the clasps to ensure they open and close properly. We also inspect the connecting components to verify they are secure and make adjustments as needed.

5 - Metal and Gemstone Condition: We inspect the metal for tarnish or damage and gemstones for chips or cracks. We use magnification tools to spot small imperfections that are not visible to the naked eye and suggest polishing or replacement if necessary.


How Is Jewelry Repaired?

We work with a team of specialized jewelers, each skilled different techniques of repair. Once we decide what needs to be repaired, we have the particular jeweler whose talents best match your needs work on the item. The process of jewelry repair varies depending on the piece and the issue, but here are some common techniques explained simply:

1 - Soldering: Jewelers use high heat to join broken pieces of metal seamlessly. This method is often used for chain repairs and ring resizing. By carefully melting a small amount of metal at the break point, the jeweler can create a strong bond that is almost invisible after polishing.

2 - Laser Welding: A precise laser beam is used to repair delicate areas without damaging surrounding materials. This technique is ideal for intricate settings or repairs near sensitive gemstones, as it minimizes heat exposure because the laser gives the jeweler accurate control over the temperature and pinpoint accuracy as to where the heat is being applied. (see image below)



3 - Prong Retipping: Small amounts of metal are added to worn prongs to strengthen them and secure gemstones. This process involves carefully building up the metal and shaping it to match the original design, ensuring the prongs hold the stone firmly in place.

4 - Stone Replacement: Replacement stones are carefully matched, and jewelers use specialized tools to reset them securely. They take great care to align the new stone perfectly with the existing design, ensuring a seamless appearance.

5 - Polishing, Cleaning or Rhodium Plating: Jewelers use polishing wheels and ultrasonic cleaners to remove scratches and dirt, restoring the piece’s shine. Polishing smooths out imperfections on the metal’s surface, while ultrasonic cleaning reaches into intricate details to remove grime. An optional final coating of rhodium plating adds brilliance and finishes the repair process.


Why Jewelry Maintenance Matters

Keeping your jewelry well maintained and in good repair is essential for several reasons:

1 - Preservation of Value: Damaged or extremely worn jewelry can lose its value to the point where some insurance policies will refuse coverage. Regular maintenance ensures your piece retains its worth, especially for appraisals. Appraisers take note of a piece’s condition, and well-maintained jewelry often commands a higher value.

2 - Prevention of Loss: Loose stones or broken clasps can lead to losing parts of your jewelry. Timely repairs prevent these mishaps. For example, reinforcing a weak prong can save you the heartache of losing a precious gemstone.

3 - Enhanced Appearance: Well-maintained jewelry looks better and complements your style. Polished and clean pieces catch the light beautifully and make a stronger impression.

4 - Longevity: Proper care and repair extend the lifespan of your treasured pieces. By addressing minor issues early, you can prevent more significant damage and keep your jewelry wearable for generations.


How Repairs Affect Professional Appraisals

When Good Khin Gems, LLC appraises your jewelry, we consider its current condition. Jewelry in that is well maintained or in excellent repair merits a higher appraisal value compared to pieces with visible damage or missing parts. For example:

  • Pristine Settings: Secure stones and intact settings contribute positively to the value. Appraisers value the craftsmanship and durability of a well-maintained setting.

  • Functional Clasps: Fully functional clasps ensure the piece is wearable, enhancing its desirability. A broken clasp might lower the appraisal value significantly.

  • Clean and Polished Appearance: A well-maintained piece looks more appealing and commands a higher valuation. Appraisers note the overall aesthetic quality, which affects market demand.


In contrast, damaged or poorly maintained jewelry may require costly repairs, reducing its appraised value until those issues are properly addressed.


Conclusion

A jeweler is your jewelry’s best friend, capable of repairing and restoring almost any issue. Regular inspections and maintenance not only preserve the sentimental and aesthetic value of your pieces but also enhance their market value. If you haven’t had your jewelry inspected recently, consider contacting Good Khin Gems, LLC at 516-308-4787 to schedule an appointment to help ensure your treasures remain in top condition for generations to come. Our CEO, Khin Goodkin, has extensive experience as a high-end jewelry inspector throughout her carrier working with such leaders in the industry as Harry Winston and other high-end jewelry manufacturers. No matter how large or small your needs, we can provide the appropriate service for your jewelry.


January Birthstone

 

The birthstone for January is Garnet. Although typically red, garnets come in a variety of colors. As befitting the birthstone of the beginning of the year, Garnets are associated with health, wealth and happiness.



 
 
 

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